Repair Traditional Cuts in BJ8 Convertible Top

Hi All,

I would like recommendation on how to repair cuts in my BJ8 convertible top as a result of multiple top-frame slices when fold downs (even being very careful). Is there a good recommended way to fix the cuts with the top in place? What procedure, patch material, and glue is recommended for the task or is there a better way to address the fix?

Although I installed the top in 1972, it is in excellent condition (except for the cuts) and was purchased from Sears at the time. Even the rear window is in great condition...who would have thought....Sears.

Thanks to all,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Hi Ray,

My BJ7 still has its orignal top in good condition, except for the usual cuts. I didn't want to replace it and, as long as you're willing to accept "pretty good rather than perfect" it worked for me. I'd also be afraid of putting up a new top and still end up with new cuts. I started out by applying this clear tape to the underside of the top below the tears:

https://www.tear-aid.com/


You may have to lower the top a bit to get the tape above the top bows and under the top. This left the sides of the cuts pressed together and from the top side I filled in the cuts with this:


The Stormsure is clear, so you could just leave it like that or I used some Navy Blue Meltonian shoe creme to blend in the colors a bit. It's been working pretty good.

I would like recommendation on how to repair cuts in my BJ8 convertible top as a result of multiple top-frame slices when fold downs (even being very careful). Is there a good recommended way to fix the cuts ?

YEP: Ray:

Replace the top!

Hi Rick,

Thanks for your reply. Of the 2, which did you use 1. StormSure or 2. Tear-aid. I am more inclind to go with the StormSure.

Again, thanks for the direction,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Ray,

I backed up the repair from the bottom with the Tear-Aid, then applied the StormSure from the top, filling in the splits with the StormSure. It's a tough repair because the splits are right over the top bows. You might be able to use just the StormSure, applying it from the underside of the top. Worth a try and it's cheap enough. It's a UK product, so it should work on our Healeys. They sell it on Amazon so you don't have to have it shipped from GB

I've never had any cuts in my BJ8 top -- either the original one or the new one I installed in 1999, so I'm curious what is causing the "usual" cuts. Maybe I've just been lucky, or maybe it is my technique for lowering the top. I just went out to the garage and lowered my top. The front hinge "scissors" appear to be too far forward to cause any problem, but the rear one might. My technique is to make sure the rear window folds smoothly without any kinks as the top is lowered, and that folds in the top fabric are also smoothed and stuffed into the well behind the rear seat back frame (guide them around the frame corners). This allows the frame to collapse more than if the fabric is just allowed to fold itself. The window and most of the fabric folds can be stuffed down behind the rear seat back frame, which also makes the folded height less of an interference with the view through the rear view mirror. The fabric fold that comes out on top can be pulled straight back and then folded forward over the rest to allow the top cover to be installed.
The top of a MK III MG Midget is very susceptible to being cut by the frame unless it is folded correctly, with the fabric being pulled completely away from the frame at the rear. My son ignored my instructions once and cut a brand new top like that. I repaired the cut with a baseball stitch until I replaced the top again.

I've never had any cuts in my BJ8 top -- either the original one or the new one I installed in 1999, so I'm curious what is causing the "usual" cuts.

Ray, were are you at the NJ Shore. Tom Graham in Sea Isle City is our top and window guy for boats. What ever you do do not go to Yanni.

Hi All,

I am sorry to not have responded earlier.

Steve, to answer your question, when folding down the top, even being very careful, it is obviously possible for the sides to fall into the path of the side curved metal frame section behind the window and the part of the frame it rest on when folded down. The result when seating the frame is to cut the roof side in a scissor action of the folding frame. Over the 45 years of this top, I have tried to be very careful but obviously not careful enough. I would appreciate any suggestions that would help eliminate this risk.

Rick, the StormSure Black worked perfectly for me and the cut can not be noticed from the outside at all. I am definitely a proponent of this solution. Thank you for your suggestion.

Now to replace the rear window Zipper
Sorry to add to this issue but when unzipping the rear window, I happened to notice that the zipper teeth on the section sewn to the top had started to separate from their supporting webbing and the zipper needs to be replaced. Since the top and rear window are in great condition, I would like to acquire a new sipper and install it. Has anyone have any ideas where I can get a new zipper?

Hi Randy, I am located far north, just west of Red Bank. I definitely would like the sewing to be done by a professional but would have to take the top completely appart for that to happen. I would rather buy a zipper, have it sewed onto the rear window by the professional and then sew the top section by hand using the existing original holes by hand. I see this as my winter project but first need to secure a zipper.

Any Zipper ideas as to where to purchase and what to ask for would very much be appreciated.

Ray(64BJ8P1)

Glad to hear the Stormsure worked, Ray. Since you're on the shore, I'd look for a local boat top place to replace your zipper.

Hello Ray and Everyone. Ray I glad to hear that Rick's solution solved the problem. Sorry I that I didn't catch this sooner but for anyone's future interest here is what I used. Bye the Ray, I too have had trouble in pinching my top at the very back where the two bows scissor down to a complete collapsed state. In 15 years I haven't figured out how to keep the canvas from getting caught in the scissors of the side bows. The example in the pictures is not in that area but it is a couple of slices I caused myself out of carelessness when reinstalling the top frame after restoration.
The product is called Lexel and is applied like a chalk and smoothed with a straight edge or just with the tip of the tube. I was more concerned with applying a thick layer than I was to try to get it really smooth. I deliberately bracketed the tear with multiple layers of masking tape so that I could smooth it with a putty knife by gliding the knife over the top of the masking tape. The small lumps in the middle are because I didn't let it dry long enough before I stuck my finger in it. For maximum strength I think it said it should dry for at least 72 hours. When I needed a suggestion to make the repair, I went to a very highly rated hardware store in whom I knew the owner. I said, 'what is the very best product you know of that will make a permanent, lasting repair to something like tent canvas or convertible tops. He gave me this Lexel. I said it was the best he had ever seen. He said he would sell me the cheap stuff but this Lexel was the very best. It has been on there for 3 years now and shows no signs of separation. Any way glad yours is working out. See pics.

Hi Vette,

Thanks for the lead to Lexel and also verifying that scissoring the top with its frame is not as uncommon as I would have thought from the comments from Steve and Keoke. I would like to know how they have not experienced this condition and what they do when retracting their tops to eliminate this problem.

All the best Vette,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Somewhere on John Sims' site there used to be a Service Bulletin pertaining to the BJ7. Apparently, the shape of the chrome trim surround at the back of the cockpit was responsible for cutting the tops. The recommendation was to sand down the inside edge to prevent the cutting. I'm assuming this was fixed by the time the BJ8 came around, but who knows. I searched, but can't find the bulletin now.

Rick, I don't seem to have a problem with the chrome cockpit surround. Of coarse that little flap of extra material right at the back edge of the door to fender gap, the piece that is there to help direct water over the edge of the surround, that piece which you can see some of it in my pic above get caught bunched up against the chrome strip when lowering the top, but that has not produced any cut for me. My problem is the material that is the main top material right about where a quarter window might be, when I lower the top I can't keep this material from getting caught in the scissors action of the two bows. even if I take care to push this material to the back it seems that it will not clear the bows enough to keep from fowling there.

Sounds like exactly where my cuts are, right above the top bow.

Rick/Vette,

Vette describes my issue as well. Lowering my top takes time and I often walk from side to side to fold the top to clear the side bows/struts/mechanism (what ever they are called) from being scissored when I retract the top and push it home for the cover. This condition seems to be like Scuttle Shake .... everyone has experienced it but no one seems to want to talk about it. I wonder since almost all of my cuts have been very small, except for the last which was much larger and in the form of an "L". the cuts have been overlooked for the most part .... not needing to be fixed.

Thanks again.

Ray(64BJ8P1)

RAC68 said:

Hi Vette,

Thanks for the lead to Lexel and also verifying that scissoring the top with its frame is not as uncommon as I would have thought from the comments from Steve and Keoke. I would like to know how they have not experienced this condition and what they do when retracting their tops to eliminate this problem.

All the best Vette,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Click to expand...

Ray, my procedure is:

1. After unlatching the top, I lift the front (wood) bow and push it back toward the rear of the car. The first thing to fold is the rear window. I make sure this folds in a smooth curve, and not buckled anywhere.
2. I reach inside and guide the fold with the rear window around the corners of the rear seat back frame on each side so that the window and adjacent fabric goes down into the well behind the seat back frame.
3. As the top continues to go back the fabric will fold itself in three places. I smooth each fold to remove buckles, and guide the edges of each fold around the corners of the rear seat back frame.
4. When all of the folds are down into the well, there will be a fold of the fabric just behind the front bow that lays out onto the rear shroud. I pull this forward over the front bow and install the top cover over it.

This puts almost all of the top fabric into the well and minimizes the thickness of fabric above the plane of the cockpit, which greatly aids the view to the rear via the dash mirror. Before learning the correct way to fold the top, I also complained about the limited view through the mirror.

Until this discussion came up, I never was even concerned about the fabric being scissored by the top frame mechanism, and I've never had any cuts to my top from that source in 33 years of Healeying. The fabric seems to take care of keeping itself out of the way of that danger. Of course, everyone knows that when erecting the top the inner flap on each side is supposed to be guided around the rear corner of the drain channel and is inside the channel to help the outer flap be effective in keeping water out of the cockpit, yes?

Hi Steve,

I appreciate the time and effort you take. I too take quite a bit of time and try my best folding the top in a way that reduces the potential of it being scissored by the top metal frame. Having my car since new and replacing the original top in 1971, I think I have been quite successful in keeping the top in quite good condition over the 45 years till now.

As I remember, my replacement top was made with a similar heavy grained vinyl as the original (although I am not that sure anymore) and since it more then outlasted the original, wonder if it was made with a heavier grained black vinyl. Also, I seem to be making the same folds as you have described and it is when almost seated with no room to adjust, that the vinyl at the rear sides of the top can push itself off the sides of the enclosure and get caught in the closing metal frame. Yes, I try to move this area of the top out of the path of the frame and often lift the closing top when I am suspicious of the top's location. However, it is obvious from the few cuts in my top that I have not always been successful.

Steve, I really admire your success and I am wondering if your top is made of a lighter gauge material that allow it to fold down without being encumbered by the frame.

Thanks Steve,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

RAC68 said:

Steve, I really admire your success and I am wondering if your top is made of a lighter gauge material that allow it to fold down without being encumbered by the frame.

Thanks Steve,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

Click to expand...

I replaced the original top on my BJ8 in April 2000, so the original lasted for 34 years without getting cut. It was brittle and I accidentally put a hole in it myself near the front bow, so that's why I replaced it. The new top from Moss appeared to be similar in quality to the original. I installed it myself. My car is garaged unless it's on the road, but after 88,000 miles of use (mostly folded, of course) the top is still pristine. I just went out to check the action of the frame as I folded the top. The forward scissors part of the frame does not appear to be a threat because it's too far forward of the folds. But there is a scissors between the middle and rear bows of the three bows at the back that could be a problem. Perhaps it's because I always guide the fabric around the corners of the rear seat back frame that protects it, or stretches it a bit and keeps the fabric around the rear corners of the top out of the way of the scissors. Or perhaps I've just been lucky. I do see where the corner fabric of the top might get caught in the scissors between the rear two bows. I've never even thought about that before. I hope that now I'm aware of it I don't get my first cut!