TR2/3/3A Another windshield question...bolts and screws?

Anyone know the size of the "L bracket" screws for the upper frame? Mine are rusted out....or do I have to buy the whole kit? Also...I don't see the bolts that bolt the stanchion to the cowl in the Moss cataloque? I don't have the Ddzus type with the plate. Anyone know the size of these bolts or who sells them.

TRF has the stanchion screws listed P/N 609108

Randall Do the L bracket screws screw into brass? How do you get the old rusted screws out? Can you drill them out without damaging the holes?:confusion:

Sorry, I can't really help there. Mine didn't give me enough trouble to remember them. Most of the frames were chromed brass, though, so that's probably what you have. I've only ever seen one of the aluminum ones. One way to tell is to look at the Tenax pegs for the soft top; on the aluminum frames there is a slotted screw head visible on the side opposite the peg.

One tool I've found useful in similar situations is a "hand impact tool" https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_36882_36882
Mine takes 5/16" hex bits, so it's fairly easy to fashion a custom bit from a 5/16" Allen wrench. Here's the one I made for some tiny plugs on an old tractor carb last year:


Try to get the tip to be a snug fit in the slot, as that lessens the chance of stripping it.

I forgot to take photos of the little ones, but here's a shot where you can see one of the bigger ones. Some of the little ones were down holes (which is why the tool is so long). I couldn't budge any of them with an ordinary screwdriver, but all but one came out with no damage using the impact tool and custom bit.

Thx Randall Looks like I'll be tool making or maybe just get the Moss kit and drill out the old L bracket screws.

karls59tr said:

Anyone know the size of the "L bracket" screws for the upper frame? Mine are rusted out....or do I have to buy the whole kit? Also...I don't see the bolts that bolt the stanchion to the cowl in the Moss cataloque? I don't have the Ddzus type with the plate. Anyone know the size of these bolts or who sells them.

Click to expand...

I believe that the small "L" bracket screws are 4BA. Get the kit.

Moss shows the stanchion bolts as 320-490...under part 54 in link...

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29161

However, I bought those from Moss about 8 years ago and the didn't fit my stanchions. The head diameter was too large. I had to cut them down on a lathe. It wasn't much, but enough to aggravate. I don't know if their current stock fits properly.

I'm going to get the kit as the screws and brackets are rusted out. If too large could the heads on the screws be Filed down?

karls59tr said:

... If too large could the heads on the screws be Filed down?

Click to expand...

If you're talking about the oversize stanchion screws from Moss that I mentioned above, then yes, they probably could be filed, although a grinder would work just as well. Realize though, that you will also be removing the chrome plating along the edge by cutting down the head diameter.

Question (I think I’m screwed): how do you retrieve the “captured” bolt inside the cowling on a TR3A that receives the bolt that holds the windshield stanchion on the guide plate? One of the two that hold my left stanchion to the guide plate apparently came loose and dropped “who knows where.” See attached photo.”

Donald1107 said:

Question (I think I’m screwed): how do you retrieve the “captured” bolt inside the cowling on a TR3A that receives the bolt that holds the windshield stanchion on the guide plate? One of the two that hold my left stanchion to the guide plate apparently came loose and dropped “who knows where.” See attached photo.”

Click to expand...

From inside the car at the top of the foot well is a metal panel that covers/hides those welded on nuts.
If I were in this situation, I would locate where on that inner panel is directly behind where the missing nut was. Maybe a long drill to do that. Then I would create a hole large enough to be able to insert a replacement nut and a socket to hold it. Remember to take into account any angle so you are working at 90 degrees from the outer panel.
Use a new nut . Unless you want to dismantle your car there is no sense looking for the old nut.
Charley

Interesting I have never saw a set up exactly like that where there is a bolt and not a screw. The bolt looks chromed and stock. In addition, I never saw the guide plates using thread bolts and not using dzus fitting which screw to the body to slide the windshield in place.

I had a 1961 where the windshield simple screwed into the body with screws like you see in a Moss catalogue without a guide plate.

I traded some guide plates to a guy in Canada because I could not figure out a way to use them. Is the car a 1960?

Charley’s plan seems to me the only you can fix it and should work fine.

steve

It is a 1959. And thank you, Charlie, for a good idea. I was considering a KeenSert thread repair insert. But I like this option to go through the inside panel.

you guys are great!

Not that it’s helping, but I’ve never seen bolts used there, only Dzus fasteners or screws.

The change must have been somewhere around TS50000. That is a wild guess. I do know that the last TR3Bs were built that way. These "bolts "are chromed and are likely called shoulder bolts.
Charley

TS46231L is the VIN. I bought it in 1986, in terrible mechanical condition, but original blue upholstery with white piping and decent paint. I don’t know what a former owner did to it other than put the pistons back in without rings. (The engine actually ran … poorly-duh).

This worked great. The space between ‘em the outside guide plate and the panel inside the driver’s foot well was only 1 1/2”, and I could put a 3/8” drill all the way through. So a 2” course thread bolt with a large washer and nut holds the stanchion firmly to the guide plate. Thanks!!!