TR2/3/3A Not all tr3 fuel pumps are built the same

Yes, I have seen a variety of systems including the staking and in another a little butterfly-shape piece of metal with the screw through the center.

I have had a check valve fall out but I do not recall ever having one that failed to work - so I do not generally mess with them when rebuilding a pump.

One other difference among pumps is how the shaft that the lever moves on is secured. On some it has a clip on each end - a good method. On others it simply sits in a slot and is captured when the pump is bolted to the block - also good. The one I have had trouble with is a pin that is just a press fit. There I had one where the pin would walk out over time, releasing the lever and parking the car.

I as well as George have rebuilt some pumps without changing the two crimped in valves.
On the pump with the pressed in pin , I took two small pieces of sheet metal( like about 1/8"X 1/4") and JB Welded them on each side of the pin. Still working. This after I noticed that the pin was moving.
Charley

A little bit of information on the spring. Use your old one. Even if you buy a new pump, change out the spring. The new ones are heavy duty and will give you 5 PSI, Not good.

Wayne

Good deal I was hoping someone had left those 2 valves alone and had some success. I am thinking now about a good way to cosmetically clean the top piece that holds the valves. Perhaps masking tape on the bottom to keep the crud out or maybe the masking tape on the valves and bolt the 2 half’s back together then clean with solvent or and steal wool
Steve

You do not usually have any crud on those valves. Cleaning with carb cleaner spray would be one way to deal with them in place.
Charley