Moss Bumpers

CessnaTPA · Nov 3, 2016

The bumpers on my 57 100-6 have seen better days with some surface rust and the front slightly twisted. I'm looking at renewing them and possibly getting them from Moss.
I see they offer two choices, $499 and $179, salesman said the more expensive one is for a show car and the other might have a few minor blemishes but is good quality.
I don't foresee ever entering any car shows but don't want to install an eye sore. Has anyone bought or seen the cheaper bumper and what is your opinion?

Keoke · Nov 3, 2016

Check Amazon / E Bay you might find a good pair of original bumpers @ a reasonable price.?

Randy Forbes · Nov 3, 2016

I bought the cheaper bumpers a few years ago__thinking I would need them on the car to get it licensed/inspected in Ohio__and they're of decent quality, certainly look-wise.

They're probably not quite as heavy, as in gauge thickness, as the originals, but unless someone is doing a side by side comparison, nobody is going to know.

Though mine aren't currently bolted onto the ends of the car, they're visible in the shop if you wanted to see them. Speaking of which, did you go to the All British car show a couple weeks ago in Safety Harbor? You might've seen my car__without bumpers__right in front of the gazebo.

Rob Glasgow · Nov 3, 2016

I installed a set on my BT7 about 10 years ago and they still look great. As Randy said, they are a fraction thinner than the originals and may be slightly different in profile, but unless you were on your knees and had an original in hand, 99.9% of the population could not tell the difference. That being said, I had one of my original bumpers rechromed to put on my just restored car and it cost about $350 for the rechromed.
So it will have one original and one reproduction installed. It will be interesting to see if anyone notices.

CessnaTPA · Nov 3, 2016

I was going to look into what it cost to have them rechromed but like I said the front is twisted. Probably could straighten it out but think I'll just go with the Moss route since you guys say they are ok.
I didn't make the British car show, I had to work, maybe next year and I'll bring my car. Thanks for the input everyone.

Randy Forbes said:
I bought the cheaper bumpers a few years ago__thinking I would need them on the car to get it licensed/inspected in Ohio__and they're of decent quality, certainly look-wise.

They're probably not quite as heavy, as in gauge thickness, as the originals, but unless someone is doing a side by side comparison, nobody is going to know.

Though mine aren't currently bolted onto the ends of the car, they're visible in the shop if you wanted to see them. Speaking of which, did you go to the All British car show a couple weeks ago in Safety Harbor? You might've seen my car__without bumpers__right in front of the gazebo.

steveg · Nov 3, 2016

CessnaTPA said:
I was going to look into what it cost to have them rechromed but like I said the front is twisted. Probably could straighten it out but think I'll just go with the Moss route since you guys say they are ok.
I didn't make the British car show, I had to work, maybe next year and I'll bring my car. Thanks for the input everyone.

You'd think anyone old enough to know how to straighten a bumper would be getting up there. Mine were evidently straightened by hand - they have a lot of cold-chisel marks inside them and I'm guessing that's how they were straightened.

CessnaTPA · Nov 4, 2016

My first thought was tying a rope to a tree and overrider but even if I got the twist out I'd still have the chrome pitting and rust (and probably a bumper bracket pulled out of the frame) And from what I've read on here it cost more to have them rechomed then just buying new ones.
BTW I decided to do the A-arm bushing change out, the old ones were deteriorated looking at the lip but surprisingly the inner rubber looked fine, could they possibly be from 57? The top link bushings were totally shot. I also decided not to use the poly bushings on the A-arms and ordered the rubber ones along with the bumpers and a few other items that should arrive Monday.

steveg said:
You'd think anyone old enough to know how to straighten a bumper would be getting up there. Mine were evidently straightened by hand - they have a lot of cold-chisel marks inside them and I'm guessing that's how they were straightened.

steveg · Nov 4, 2016

CessnaTPA said:
My first thought was tying a rope to a tree and overrider but even if I got the twist out I'd still have the chrome pitting and rust (and probably a bumper bracket pulled out of the frame) And from what I've read on here it cost more to have them rechomed then just buying new ones.
BTW I decided to do the A-arm bushing change out, the old ones were deteriorated looking at the lip but surprisingly the inner rubber looked fine, could they possibly be from 57? The top link bushings were totally shot. I also decided not to use the poly bushings on the A-arms and ordered the rubber ones along with the bumpers and a few other items that should arrive Monday.

Considering how hard they are to replace, they may just be from 1957. If they'd been replaced in the last 20 years, they'd probably look better than that.

CessnaTPA · Nov 4, 2016

Top Link bushings and A-arm, obviously the top links take more of a beating.

Randy Forbes · Nov 5, 2016

Be sure to set the A-arm height correctly BEFORE TIGHTENING the lower/inner bush pins, or you'll shear your brand new rubber. Same goes for when you tighten the upper/outer pin too.

The lower/outer (threaded) ends have their own procedure, which is detailed in the Bentley manual (not sure if it is as well described in Hayne's or other versions). If you haven't already inspected these for wear, I recommend that you do so; any deferred maintenance__like frequent greasing__and these metal-on-metal parts develop uneven wear pretty quickly. Who knows how old they are, given that you're thinking the rubber bushes may be original?

Failure to set up the front suspension pivots/assembly properly will result in a reduced service life for your new components, and you'll be doing the job again soon thereafter.

Do it right: do it once. If you want some visual aids, I can probably come up with a few pictures...

CessnaTPA · Nov 6, 2016

Thanks Randy for the reminder of setting the A-Arm height first. I have the Bentley manual but don't remember seeing anything about how to set the height. What's the best method?
I have the A-Arm off the car and can feel a tiny bit of play in each arm at the lower outer bearing that's consistant at all points of movement. Is it acceptable to have a little play?
Before removing the wheels both sides felt pretty solid with vertical and horizontal movement.

Pics are always welcomed as with seeing the one of removing the coil spring made it very clear what the book was trying to explain.

Randy Forbes said:
Be sure to set the A-arm height correctly BEFORE TIGHTENING the lower/inner bush pins, or you'll shear your brand new rubber. Same goes for when you tighten the upper/outer pin too.

The lower/outer (threaded) ends have their own procedure, which is detailed in the Bentley manual (not sure if it is as well described in Hayne's or other versions). If you haven't already inspected these for wear, I recommend that you do so; any deferred maintenance__like frequent greasing__and these metal-on-metal parts develop uneven wear pretty quickly. Who knows how old they are, given that you're thinking the rubber bushes may be original?

Failure to set up the front suspension pivots/assembly properly will result in a reduced service life for your new components, and you'll be doing the job again soon thereafter.

Do it right: do it once. If you want some visual aids, I can probably come up with a few pictures...

EV2239 · Nov 6, 2016

My BJ7 had the thinner patter bumpers and the chrome was peeling in our damp English climate, so I bought stainless steel ones from Vietnam and I'm very pleased with them.

https://www.groupharrington.com/en/part/856/austin-healey-100-6-and-3000-bn4-bj8-bumpers.html

Bob_Spidell · Nov 6, 2016

Wow ... those look really nice (and they include the overriders!). Price is reasonable, too, IMO. Last time I saw an OEM bumper for sale they wanted $300 for one, and that was years ago.

John Turney · Nov 6, 2016

Randy Forbes said:
Be sure to set the A-arm height correctly BEFORE TIGHTENING the lower/inner bush pins, or you'll shear your brand new rubber. Same goes for when you tighten the upper/outer pin too.

...

A 2" block of wood between the upper A-arm and shock mounting surface works well for this, unless you are Randy, then you have to carefully machine a block of steel.

CessnaTPA · Nov 6, 2016

Just to confirm I understand correctly, an actual 2" block of wood, not a 2x4 which is less than 2" in the location I have a red arrow pointing to? Thanks

John Turney said:
A 2" block of wood between the upper A-arm and shock mounting surface works well for this, unless you are Randy, then you have to carefully machine a block of steel.

dcarlg · Nov 6, 2016

You are right.
Cut 2 inches from the length of a 2 X 4.
Use the 2 " side for front suspension assembly.
Always easier the second time, at least for me.
Good Luck.
Douglas

John Turney · Nov 6, 2016

Correct!

Randy Forbes · Nov 7, 2016

John Turney said:
A 2" block of wood between the upper A-arm and shock mounting surface works well for this, unless you are Randy, then you have to carefully machine a block of steel.

On cue!

CessnaTPA · Nov 7, 2016

Thanks guys, I'm off the next three days and now have the info to finish this job.

CessnaTPA · Nov 11, 2016

I finished installing the bumpers yesterday and overall very happy with them. Salesman did warn me the holes might not line up perfectly which was true on the front & rear.
I wonder if the bolt spacing changed over the years or it's just poor manufacturing. Even the tag light bracket didn't line up. But for the price I now have shinny new bumpers.

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Moss Bumpers

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