TR2/3/3A 1960 TR3A post 60000. WON"T START ????????????????

Tried everything I know but, still can't start my post 60000 TR3A.

This is a full frame off restoration, the engine was totally rebuilt using oversize piston ported and relieved head, 3/4 cam and various other goodies in it.
About 3 ish years ago, before the body was installed I started the engine and ran it in for about 5 hours total over a period of 2 to 3 weeks. I did not run the gas dry, mistake I know, any how, fast forward to about two weeks ago I decided that It was time to start it up and complete the restoration. It is now pretty much finished with things like lights and some upholstery left to do. Cannot get it to start and run.

List of what has been done over the last week or so.
FUEL
carbs checked and cleaned.
fuel pump checked for flow, OK
fuel flow to carbs checked, OK
fresh fuel in tank, 5 gallons

ELECTRICAL
points checked and reset to .015
plugs cleaned and set to .032
re-checked firing order, OK
Used an inline checker that blinked as the plug fired, OK
recharged battery to max, OK

I get an occasional cough out of it. Tried starting fluid, was no real help.

Have not tried squirting fuel into the cylinders yet.

Getting frustrated,
Need some thoughts and ideas, please!

Thanks, Tinkerman

Your description says you have fuel and spark and since you were able to type it we'll assume you have air.

That may leave timing. You indicate you confirmed firing order so presumably that means the plug wires are correct but I would also confirm that #1 is at TDC compression stroke when the rotor is pointed to #1 wire.

Modern fuel turns into glue after sitting awhile - if (as I think you suggest) you ran it and left it without treating the fuel or clearing it out - I suppose valves could have stuck open. I have encountered valves stuck closed after such a period but that is not the issue (engine would not turn over) but perhaps stuck open is also possible.

To check this out a compression check would be useful but perhaps even simpler would be to remove the valve cover and watch the bits move up & down.

I'd likely as not think your float needle valves are stuck shut since you don't say if you get fuel inside the carbs - just to the carbs.

Have you shot a few drops of fuel into both carbs then tried it. If everything else is correct it should fire and run for a few seconds on the small amount of fuel.

Did it when I got mi engine back together but no radiator so did not want it to run long just fire and run for a few seconds.

David

.032 may be a bit wide for points. Drop it to .025-.027 and see if it doesn't help. next up would be a compression check, that will tell you about a stuck valve, stuck rings, or just general lack of health.

Have you checked your coil?
a weak coil might fool an inline spark checker.
(not on your list )

And nothing has been apart since it ran before (except the things you listed) ?

How much throttle & choke have you tried? I mean, are you using full choke (which is way too much), and have you tried holding the throttle open just a little, a bit more, about midway, and full open?

I think I'd try some carburetor cleaner down the carb throats first (in my experience, it works much better than "starting fluid" for starting recalcitrant engines) with the choke just out to the first notch (fast idle but no actual enrichment). If it starts and dies, you know you've got a fuel problem.

Next, some new plugs, gapped to .025". (The figure in the workshop manual was revised with the 2nd edition of the Instruction Book aka Practical Hints.) If you can't manage a new set for testing, take the old ones out and heat each one with a torch until the side electrode glows red and you can't see any more yellow in the flame.

Also a "known good" condenser. I've seen some really strange failures, including having spark at the plugs but wouldn't fire the engine. In fact, I've got one on the bench right now that failed in use, but I can't find a dang thing wrong with it. Not shorted, capacitance is about right, no high voltage leakage. But the engine sure ran like crap with it installed (I'd guess about 30% misfires), and ran perfectly with a replacement.

Guy's comment about the coil is good, too. But don't bother checking it, just substitute a good one.

First, run a compression check to make sure the valves are seating. If it sat 3 years the seats may have rusted and killed the compression. For that matter, the rings may have stuck to. If you have spark and gas, but no bang...compression is the next check.

If you had the disy out, I would say you are 180 out. New fresh plugs at 25 then move the disy counter clock wise and back slowly plus some starter fluid it should pop.