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Thread: Starting my Bodywork journey.

  1. #41
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Nice looking patch!

    +1 to actually hang the door...at least until you have the post tacked. For door gaps 1/8 to 3/16" would be good. Less than 1/8 and the front of the door starts to rub. More than 3/16" starts to look too wide. The key is to get the gap even along any one entire edge. It's not that noticeable if the edges vary slightly between each other. For example, if the lower gap is 3/16", but the front and rear gaps are 1/8", it is not noticeable to the eye. But, if the rear gap starts at 3/16" at the top and ends up 1/8" at the bottom...then the eye really pics that discrepancy out easily.

    Keep the pics coming...I like watching others work much more than I like doing it!
    John

    1955 TR2

  2. #42
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Hello John

    Thanks for the info.

    I may need a hydraulic ram to hold the "A" post because as I open the gap up at the rear of the door the post seems to twist. Will take another look in the morning.

    Question.
    Firewall bottom flange to floor. Bend in towards the driver or out towards the motor. I saw an explanation somewhere on this site but can't find it at the moment.

    David

  3. #43
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    The firewall has a lip that points to the rear. The floor then rests on that lip.
    John

    1955 TR2

  4. #44
    Obi Wan M_Pied_Lourd's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    David,

    What year is your TR3?

    Cheers
    Tush
    81 TR8, SATPL
    73 TR6 CF4874UO
    68 TR250 CD5228LO,
    60 TR3A TS69891LO, 60 TR3A TS64870L, 59 TR3A TS44836LO

  5. #45
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Hello John/Tush

    Thank you.

    That makes sense to support the floor.
    So my replacement floor needs to be trimmed as it is protruding beyond the firewall by about 3/8"

    It is a 1960/61
    Probable built in 1960 and registered in the US in 61. TS 75524 L

    David

  6. #46
    Obi Wan M_Pied_Lourd's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Guys will correct me but I know that my 59 and my 60 are different when it comes to that area. The 59 has the lip pointing to the rear but my 60 points to the front I think. The floor extends a little past the bulkhead on the 60.

    Cheers
    Tush
    81 TR8, SATPL
    73 TR6 CF4874UO
    68 TR250 CD5228LO,
    60 TR3A TS69891LO, 60 TR3A TS64870L, 59 TR3A TS44836LO

  7. #47
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Hello Tush

    Thank you

    I think you are correct. The drivers side has a professional looking lip going forward. The passengers side has nothing it is just gob welded to the floor pan and was covered by fiberglass.
    Is the screw thread in the very end of the inner sill to hold the splash guard?
    Firewall to floor.jpg

    David

  8. #48
    Obi Wan M_Pied_Lourd's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Yes, that is correct. It holds the bottom of the splash guard.

    Cheers
    Tush
    81 TR8, SATPL
    73 TR6 CF4874UO
    68 TR250 CD5228LO,
    60 TR3A TS69891LO, 60 TR3A TS64870L, 59 TR3A TS44836LO

  9. #49
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    See how much I have forgotten after staring at this TR2 for 3-1/2 years. Good catch Tush!

    And, here is a pic to show that Tush is, indeed, correct!


    You have to zoom in, but the forward lip is there.
    John

    1955 TR2

  10. #50
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Got the Kick panel installed and the door gap is good. May have to do a bit of the wire rod trick to fix some of the gap at the top front edge of the door. Ended up having to buy a Hydraulic ram kit from Northern tool to hold the door gap correct while I welded it.

    Moving on to the Firewall.
    The bottom edge is almost all gone and the lip that holds the splash guard is missing (the PO had tacked a piece on for that). I am going to replace about 2" along the bottom edge and 2" up the outside edge. Am I better to do a lap joint or try a but weld. If a but weld how to hold the edges together?
    The piece by the transmission tunnel will be replaced as well.

    David

    Firewall inside view..jpgFirewall by transmision tunnel.jpg

  11. #51
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    By the way any idea what the drilled/punched holes in the fire wall are for?

    David

  12. #52
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Bill

    '59 Triumph TR3A TS63273L

  13. #53
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Hello Bill

    Thank you for the drawing and list. I have seen it before somewhere not sure where though.

    The holes are low down on the drivers side and outside the engine compartment. They lead into the wheel well.

    David

  14. #54
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    If it's those 3 holes in the first pic, my cars don't have those. It looks like there are marks from something having been bolted to them...like maybe a plate so the driver's feet wouldn't fall out of the rust holes?!?
    John

    1955 TR2

  15. #55
    Obi Wan M_Pied_Lourd's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Did your car come with the clamps for the carpets/mats? I think the location should be higher then your picture shows but you never know if they were holes that they drilled to mount the clamps...

    Cheers
    Tush
    81 TR8, SATPL
    73 TR6 CF4874UO
    68 TR250 CD5228LO,
    60 TR3A TS69891LO, 60 TR3A TS64870L, 59 TR3A TS44836LO

  16. #56
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Hello John/Tush

    I see what you mean there is a slight witness of something being bolted there. I

    I do have carpets that I am told came from the car. There are no marks or holes in the carpet. Think I should weld them up to keep the water out? I presume that the forward facing seam should be sealed with something.

    I have got the first section of the repair to the fire wall.

    Test fitting the wing I think that the sill may be a little low but it is hard to tell. I will have to do Tush's fix to the door gap.

    David

    Repair to Fire wall.jpgFire wall repair fron wheel well.jpgTest door and wing fitting.jpg

  17. #57
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    It's looking much better than when you started!
    John

    1955 TR2

  18. #58
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Thank you.

    I am real pleased how it is working out. Have to work on getting my welding neater though as the drivers side fender will require a lot of work. At the moment it weighs a lot. Bondo and who knows what else.

    I am planning on a strip about 2" wide all the way up the outside of the fire wall to restore the splash guard attachment points and finish the hole repair on the fire wall. Bought some welding clamps at HF to hold the long strip together as clamps wont't reach.

    David

  19. #59
    Jedi Knight
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    Got the drivers side kick panel done. The clamps were a great help holding everything in line for welding.

    Firewall by kick panell.jpgFirewall by kick panell piece in place.jpgFirewall inside view finished..jpg

    The drivers side Dog Leg has a small hole that was covered with bondo and there is a repair piece on the bottom between the dog leg and sill.Where can I find a good photo to guide me with the repair on the bottom part. There appears to be part of a hole in the bottom panel.


    David
    Attached Images Attached Images

  20. #60
    Yoda CJD's Avatar
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    Re: Starting my Bodywork journey.

    You finally asked for a picture I don't have! That hole is the same standard sized hole you see under the rear apron, that was plugged with one of those clear plastic plugs used under the apron and sills. I think they used them at the factory so spray Waxoil before they plugged them up.
    John

    1955 TR2

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