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Dealmaker5
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Hello does any body have an idea of how to get a pattern for the firewall on a Healey , the insulation that looks like hardee backer cement board
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Fire wall insulation
- Thread starter Dealmaker5
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drambuie
Jedi Warrior
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I don't know why you would even need it? As long as you insulate the floors, toe boards, and transmission tunnel you should be good to go. I seriously doubt if the stock one does any good, being asbestos it is more of a health hazard then anything. But if you must, I would just go for the moss kit.
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You can make a big improvement, even on a concours car, by ensuring the grommets are in place and sealing properly at the top portion of the firewall. Shine a droplight in the engine compartment and look up under the dash. Wherever the light shines through is a path for really hot air to come into the passenger cabin. You'll be surprised how many "points of light" you'll see.
Griz
Jedi Hopeful
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I used Hardibacker for under the floor boards and used the Moss product for the firewall and driver's footwell. While Hardibacker may not have good insulation value, remember that if installed correctly these pieces have spacers behind them providing an air gap and will block radiant heat if not convective heat. So they do provide "some good".
Griz
Griz
Csarneson
Jedi Hopeful
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Good comment Griz. I've considered hiding a foil layer on the backside of the insulation in that air gap. I don't think you'd be able to see it and the foil would create a true radiant reflective layer in that airspace. I'm thinking it would help dramatically. Just an idea...
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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You didn't say what model of Healey, but Moss has kits for the 100 made in collaboration with Roger Moment, the Healey 'Guru of Gurus.' Wish they had them when we restored our BN2.
D
Deleted member 19315
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I disagree that hardibacker has no insulation properties. This is even better with the air gap spacers and with the addition of some silvering . It has worked well for me both on the engine space bulkhead and on the carb heatshield which was just a sheet of steel before my additions. I,m sure there are better products but this stuff does work. However I do agree with proper bulkhead sealing and insulation of footwells etc with something like cooltec or dynamat too.
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Griz For one said it works!
Hassand for two agreed
Csarneson Just updated the metod
Keoke thinks it's the right way to go too
Hassand for two agreed
Csarneson Just updated the metod
Keoke thinks it's the right way to go too
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Hardie Board is now preprinted in yellow. I bought the "white" stuff from BCS. It came from the UK and was bight white and I found "master board" on the backside of it. Probably the UK version of Hardie Board.
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"preprinted" should be "preprimed".
John_Progess
Jedi Warrior
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As I remember the kit I got from Moss was not big enough to do the large piece under the driver floor board. My original asbestos piece was still good so I reused that and cut the remaining pieces out of the Moss sheet. The Moss sheet cut very easily. All my original pieces were good enough to get good patterns. Have a good day!
John
John
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i got my kit from BCS and everything fit and it had all the pieces. I like the UK product because it was bright white.
RestoreThemAll
Jedi Warrior
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I used spacers under the foot shield and above the muffler (hardiboard). As I recall there were no spacers behind the firewall panel or on the side of the toe box. Am I wrong?
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Here's a picture of the side of the toe box on the driver's side showing the spacers on my BJ7
I don't see an outline for the standoffs on the passenger side nor does it look like they are on the firewall, either:
It's possible they only used them on the driver's side because that's where the exhaust pipe runs. I still have the original asbestos pieces so I can check them to see, but won't be able to get to them until next month. I'll check back with you then if you're interested.
Because originality wasn't my prime motivation
but keeping the heat of the V8 out of the cockpit was, I addressed the issue with engine-turned stainless steel covers over a layer of foil bubble insulation (Reflectix). 
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The firewall one has no spacers. It sits flat on the firewall. The upper two on the footbox also sit flat with no spacers. The one on the side of the footbox, and the ones on the immediate front and bottom of the footbox all have spacers. The one on the floor above the muffler also has spacers. In my picture you can see the spacers on the muffler shield as it is lying on the floor waiting installation.
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RestoreThemAll
Jedi Warrior
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Ok. I'm in for a re do of the panel on the side of the drivers toe box. Somebody (me) put an engine right in the way. That'll be fun.
Spacers do make all the difference. I compare it to the woodstove I have in my shop with cement board behind it. It has over an inch of space between the cement board and the wall. The board gets too hot to touch and the wall behind it is only warm.
Spacers do make all the difference. I compare it to the woodstove I have in my shop with cement board behind it. It has over an inch of space between the cement board and the wall. The board gets too hot to touch and the wall behind it is only warm.
OP
Dealmaker5
Freshman Member
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Griz For one said it works!
Hassand for two agreed
Csarneson Just updated the metod
Keoke thinks it's the right way to go too
Thanks Guys , looks like Haribacker and the proper spacing wins compared to Moss's price - I saw some hardibacker a while back when i was doing some tile work that had the exact same waffle profile but I cannot find it now , but will keep looking , thanks
RestoreThemAll
Jedi Warrior
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Search Lowes or Homedepot Hardibacker
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