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TR2/3/3A Transmission not going in

Sumton

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this car has been undergoing restoration for years. finally got it running and driving a few months ago, and ran into numerous problems. note: i had mistakenly paid somebody to do most of the work, and he decided he didn't want to finish it. most likely, he did such a lousy job he didn't want to be responsible for fixing the crap he did wrong. anyway, the transmission leaked so badly we had to pull it after putting about 7 miles on it. there was also a shifting problem, and we had to pull it to be sure there wasn't a problem with the clutch fork. anyway, we have tried twice to put it back in but can't get it home. it goes in far enough that it sits on the three top studs, but we can't get it any farther in.

i will also note that the alignment tool is hard to insert all the way too, like the tolerances are too tight.

thoughts/recommendations/direction?

thanks!
 

TR3driver

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Did you check that the clutch friction plate fits onto the gearbox input shaft? Almost sounds like you've got a size mismatch somehow; the last alignment tool I bought was so loose that it was useless.

Another possibility might be a damaged pilot bearing.
 
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If it was bolted up tight before you pulled out then it should go back. The angle of trans to motor may be off. Try raising Engine up a little. If you moved clutch while trans was out then that alignment is off as well. If trans is in far enough for the three stud to hold trans in place, take a piece of wood (2x4) to rear of trans and hold against tail flange and hit it with BFH, trans in gear, turn tail shaft and hit again. Repeat until trans slides into place.
Marv
 

Chuck Murphy

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I just had the same problem. What happened to me was that the clutch disk slipped a little as I withdrew the tranny (do not know why - tranny nose hit disk on way out??). I had to use my alignment tool to center the clutch disk again. My alignment tool does not fit all the way into the clutch, but it must slide in and out VERY EASILY. You might try the alignment tool again and loosen and then retighten the 6 (or is it 8?) clutch plate bolts again. Chuck
 

tdskip

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The other tip that can be a big help is to use several longer same thread bolts to help guide the transmission back into place.

Go to Ace hardware or similar and get three 3 or 4 inch bolts and start threading those in. This makes alignment so so so much easier.

Please keep is posted on how you are doing.
 

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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Another way is to cut the heads off two same thread bolts,file a notch in the non threaded side to fit a screwdriver,screw these bolts into the mounting holes about 2/3rds up on the flange. This setup will act to take the weight and as guide to slide the gearbox on. The first time I mounted a TR3 gearbox back in the day I must have fought that thing for hours:encouragement:.
 
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Sumton

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thank you all for the many ideas. i'll go after it again today. I did not mention in my first post that i removed the clutch to inspect it. so likely there is an alignment issue.

thank you again and happy holidays!
 

chuck69ss

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Another way is to cut the heads off two same thread bolts,file a notch in the non threaded side to fit a screwdriver,screw these bolts into the mounting holes about 2/3rds up on the flange. This setup will act to take the weight and as guide to slide the gearbox on. The first time I mounted a TR3 gearbox back in the day I must have fought that thing for hours:encouragement:.

This is what I was going to suggest. It also helps reduce any accidental torque on the shaft from the transmission weight hanging on it. Learned the hard way a few years ago..
 
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Sumton

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just a quick note - i hurt my shoulder but hope to be back at it this sunday and monday. i will let you know
 
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Sumton

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we are getting closer but cannot get it all the way in. i'm going to try some bolts around to see if i can use those to pull it all the way in. it feels like the shaft is in, and catching. we just cannot close that final inch.
 

TR3driver

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Well, good luck with that. I think you're making a mistake. The input shaft HAS to be an easy, sliding fit in both the pilot bearing and the clutch plate. If not, the clutch isn't going to work right even if you do manage to force it together. And if the shaft is caught on the splines, or on the pilot bearing, then something is going to break before it goes together.
 

crash21

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I learned this the hard way. I replaced the clutch, t/o bearing and pp as well as the pilot bushing on a 80's pickup truck. I realize it isn't a LBC but the principle is the same. I fought for hours to get that shaft to slide into position. Tried it, put it down, check everything out, tried it, put it down, check alignment etc. Over and over.
I got mad at it and used the bolts to pull it up into position. When I started the engine it sounded terrible and the clutch wouldn't disengage at all.
I had to take the whole thing apart again and I found I had burred the pilot bushing and then cracked it .
It should go in fairly easily. If not you have got something out of alignment.
Good luck. Just walk away from it if you have to and come back to fight with it another day.
 

donbmw

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I have had my transmission out twice since my car has been back on the road. The first going back in even with someone help it did not go easy. We fought it and fianlly got the right alinement and it slide right in. Second time I did it by my self even though I had help when need. Had engine supported with a jack when trans was removed. Going back I used a floor jack to support the trans at what looked to be the right position. Saw that the engine and trans alinement was way off. Jacked engine until the gap between them looked the same. Pushed jack and trans forward and it slipped right in. Had may be 30 min. Where over an hour fighting it before.
 

sp53

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Do you have the correct pilot shaft bushing? I suggest starting over and remove the clutch and make sure the disc is facing the right way around and that it slides on the splines easily and the pilot bushing is not too tight. I usually buff up the trany splines with a wire brush and buff up the splines on the disc also to make everything slides. I have also put a very small amount of anti- sezz on the splines, but do that at your own risk because it could get on the clutch.

Like mentioned before the trans and engine need to be on the exact same plane. Sometimes that requires undoing the exhaust to let engine drop down in the back.
 

CJD

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It's the clutch disc. Everyone goes through this situation...once...and realizes how important it is to get the disc aligned right.

If you use the bolts to cinch it up when it doesn't slide in easily...you deserve the damage that will ensue.

I repeat...it's always the clutch disc.
 

Mkutz

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I recall having a similar problem and using two big C-Clamps on each side to pull it all together. Worked for me. Good Luck!
 

bnw

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50 years ago (WOW) I cracked the bell housing doing it that way. On our cars, the bell housing IS the gearbox. Don't do it!
 
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Sumton

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finally found the time to revisit this. thanks to the advice from you guys - went out and bought some 1/4" grade 8 bolts for the holes and a larger bolt for the starter area. used those to pull the tranny that last inch. its in!!!! so now all i have to do is put the whole interior back in!
 
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