• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Brake/clutch lines

David_Doan

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
I've been working on my car for a while getting it ready to paint. Pretty much everything is done except for painting the body. The original brake lines are in good shape. I cleaned them up but did not protect them with anything. Now after being storage in the garage for a year or so, they have lots of surface rust. This is probably worse than normal because my son left a plastic tray full of muratic acid open on my workbench for a month or so. (I did not know because i was stuck in the house with a broken leg).

Now that I'm cleaning them again, what should I protect them with? Penetrating oil, Fluid film, wax, and clear paint are some ideas I have. I guess I'm lucky that this occurred before assembling my car.

Any suggestions?


thanks,

David
 

Billm

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I painted mine black but I don't care about it being "per factory"
Maybe you could use "aluminum" or "cast iron" colored paint, I wouldn't trust clear
BillM
 
Country flag
Offline
I used "aluminum" colored paint on mine and they still look good. In my bugeye I made new lines from the cupro-nickle material. Easy to work with and will not rust.
 
OP
D

David_Doan

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Thanks guys. I've used cast coat iron, cast coat aluminum, and plain aluminum on other stuff. One of those sounds great for the brake lines.

I wasn't aware that clear coat was less "tough" than regular paint. At least when painting a color, I can spend a lot less time prepping.
 
Country flag
Offline
Problem with clear coat is that the metal will still rust under it and will be visible.
 

BlueMax

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Just curious how do you determine only the condition of a 55 year old steel brake tube from the outside? Doesn't brake tubing corrosion accumulates from the inside too?
 
Country flag
Offline
Alan makes a good point. And it would be easy to make new ones using the originals as templates.
 

nomad

Yoda
Offline
Just curious how do you determine only the condition of a 55 year old steel brake tube from the outside? Doesn't brake tubing corrosion accumulates from the inside too?

Ah, just make sure your park brake is good!:highly_amused:

Just went through no brakes with my 66.....major pucker moment! Lines not corroded but PO had bent the line through the tunnel so that it rubbed through on the transmission.

Kurt
 

nomad

Yoda
Offline
Rut, I'd be afraid that the tubing clamp might not be up to the job. I have a cheap set that look's a lot like that and the tubing will slip as you are flaring it. I've heard Fedhill are the best and their tool look's nothing like that. Of course it cost's many times that!!:greedy_dollars:

You can rent it though!

Kurt
 
Country flag
Offline
Those cheapo flaring tools work OK if you take your time and pay close attention. You need to be sure your cut is square and clean. Then you need to use a small file and emery cloth to eliminate all burrs. You also need to be sure the die is properly lubricated. It is slow and tedious, but if you are only doing a dozen or so flares ... it is an affordable option.
 

nomad

Yoda
Offline
Trevor, is your experience with steel, cuppro nickel, copper? I am going to make up a bunch of lines out of Fedhill's cuppro nickel. The claim is that their tubing is up to standard while the cheap stuff sold on e-bay is not. Much thinner.

Kurt.
 
Country flag
Offline
I've used mild steel and the cuppro nickel from Fedhill. They use cuppro nickel on some farm tractors as well, but not in 3/16". I've not looked at the stuff on ebay. When I did mine back in 2007 Fedhill was the only source I could find.
 

smaceng

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
I have used the Fedhill lines and fittings on a couple of projects and been favorably impressed.
Scott in CA
 

nomad

Yoda
Offline
Well, looks like Jegs will get some of my business as well as Fedhill!

Kurt.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
A TR2/3/3A TR3 Brake / Clutch Resevior & Lines needed Triumph 2
Rob Glasgow Brake/Clutch Reservoir Lines Austin Healey 9
davidk TR6 Braided Steel Brake and Clutch Lines for TR-6 Triumph 1
71TR6 TR2/3/3A Aftermarket brake and clutch master cylinders - black extension? Triumph 6
Lin Brake/Clutch Fluid Austin Healey 11
K TR2/3/3A An Unusual Brake and Clutch MC Set Up? Triumph 2
K TR2/3/3A Clutch and Brake Master Cylinder push rod stop bolts? Triumph 15
C TR2/3/3A TR3A clutch/brake cylinder rebuild Triumph 4
mctriumph master cylinder brake/clutch Tr3 Triumph Classifieds 9
fpstude TR4/4A Brake / Clutch Fluid for TR-4A Triumph 8
J For Sale Triumph TR 2/3 original brake/clutch master cylinder Triumph Classifieds 2
B Flushing brake/clutch Austin Healey 16
D TR2/3/3A clutch/brake pedal question Triumph 4
angelfj1 TR2/3/3A Possible UK Source for Authentic looking Clutch/Brake MC Triumph 5
SD Bugeye Clutch and brake clevis and pins Spridgets 3
G Brake/clutch resevoid replaced do I have to bleed the system Austin Healey 9
vette Brake/Clutch Reservoir Austin Healey 14
M TR2/3/3A Fitting on Moss Brake/Clutch Masters Triumph 16
M TR2/3/3A Brake/Clutch Reservoir Seal Triumph 9
R Bug-eye clutch slave cylinder and brake cylinder kit interchange Spridgets 1
K TR2/3/3A Brake and clutch MC housing.... Triumph 2
petnatcar GAS, BRAKE and CLUTCH PEDALS for a BT7 Austin Healey 2
T TR2/3/3A Girling Brake/Clutch Master Cylinder [slant port] Variations? Triumph 6
S Clutch Fluid / Brake Fluid consumption Spridgets 3
B TR2/3/3A Gaskets for Brake/Clutch Fluid Reservoir? Triumph 15
D brake /clutch pedals Austin Healey 2
M_Pied_Lourd TR2/3/3A Brake and Clutch Master Pushrod Question Triumph 4
I TR2/3/3A Clutch and brake pedal assembly problem Triumph 4
jlaird Brake and Clutch bleeding Spridgets 7
S "59" 100-6 brake/ clutch master cylinder upgrade Austin Healey 3
PatGalvin TR2/3/3A Brake and Clutch pedal to MC adjustments? Triumph 4
H master cylinder brake vs mc clutch Austin Healey 14
Crankshaft TR2/3/3A Brake/Clutch fluid question Triumph 6
K TR2/3/3A Brake and Clutch MC pushrod/pedal bolt stops? Triumph 2
nevets Replacing the brake/clutch fluid reservoir Austin Healey 21
vette Silicone DOT-5 Brake & Clutch Fluid Austin Healey 17
C Sealing Healey clutch fitting on brake reservoiur Austin Healey 13
Jim_Newman brake/clutch fluid reservoir Austin Healey 4
Lukens More clutch / brake master cylinder questions. Triumph 7
Rut Brake and clutch pushrod Spridgets 1
T BN1 clutch and brake shaft Austin Healey 4
mgedit TR2/3/3A Routing of Clutch and Brake Pipes from MC 56 TR3 Triumph 7
richberman brakes/clutch fluid out top of brake reservoir Austin Healey 11
RAC68 BJ8 Brake/Clutch Reservoir Fluid Loss Austin Healey 14
T TR2/3/3A tr3 brake/clutch reservior question Triumph 1
T Clutch and Brake Help Spridgets 13
CZ_Dave T-Series Need Help, Clutch/Brake MC on 1959 Magnette MG 3
R TR2/3/3A TR 3a brake/clutch master cylinders/pedal movement Triumph 4
mgedit TR2/3/3A 56 TR3 Clutch/Brake Pedals Triumph 4
J TR2/3/3A TR3 Lockheed brake/clutch MC bracket... Triumph 11

Similar threads

Top