General Tech Removing Stuck Head Studs from Block

KVH · Aug 2, 2015

I guess that says it. How do I get those out without snapping them off? I am half-tempted to leave the stuck ones in--all but 3 are out--but after chewing up the sides with my Craftsman extracter, it's bothering me.

I've tried heating them with a heat gun. I don't have a torch. I've sprayed penetrating oil at the base. And hit them lightly on top with a hammer.

I suppose my main concern is snapping them off. My goal is all new ARP studs. I can just keep the originals and forget the ARP studs if the consensus is 50/50 I'll snap them off.

Any advice appreciated. I realize this is probably a subject brought up a lot.

Thanks all.

TR3driver · Aug 2, 2015

If the threads are OK (new nut spins easily all the way down without chasing the threads, no binding), and the damage from the extractor is no deeper than the bottom of the threads, then I would probably leave them alone. The factory studs appear to be very good quality and not prone to failure.

If you must remove them, then I'd continue with the penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster) and hammer technique for a week or two (to give it time to soak in). More heating/cooling cycles will help as well (a propane torch is only $20 or so at Lowe's or Home Depot).

If a few weeks of that doesn't produce any joy, then graduate to the more extreme measures (like welding a nut to the end).

TomMull · Aug 2, 2015

TR3driver said:
If the threads are OK (new nut spins easily all the way down without chasing the threads, no binding), and the damage from the extractor is no deeper than the bottom of the threads, then I would probably leave them alone. The factory studs appear to be very good quality and not prone to failure.

If you must remove them, then I'd continue with the penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster) and hammer technique for a week or two (to give it time to soak in). More heating/cooling cycles will help as well (a propane torch is only $20 or so at Lowe's or Home Depot).

If a few weeks of that doesn't produce any joy, then graduate to the more extreme measures (like welding a nut to the end).

If you don't have a welder, you might try double nuts with red loctite on both. Although I've had success with this method, I don't know if it's any better than the Sears extractor. Tom

Rut · Aug 2, 2015

KVH,
Mix up some ATF and acetone 50:50 and let it do its work on the base of the threads. You can create a dam around the offending studs with modeling clay and flood the area with the mix. Buy a MAPP gas torch at Lowes, Walmart, etc. and heat the stud until the ATF/acetone mix starts to boil, let it cool and add more mix to keep it flooded as it wicks in. Use your stud extractor and a hammer to tap and turn. The most important thing is to let the ATF/acetone do its job on the rust and corrosion in the block and on the stud.
I have no problem reusing good original head studs if they have not been stretched or corroded...when they let go it's more of an aggravation than a catastrophic failure like a rod bolt. I've started using ARP on my engines since they are very cheap insurance.
Good luck, Rut

sp53 · Aug 2, 2015

I agree with Randall, but if they are now cut badly and the heating and oil does not do it and they have to come out, you might try a large 5 foot pipe wrench down close to the block with something to protect the block from the pipe wrench turning against it. If I remember correct, a couple of the long ones are very deep into the block and frozen in there pretty good.

TomMull · Aug 2, 2015

Rut said:
KVH,
Mix up some ATF and acetone 50:50 and let it do its work on the base of the threads. You can create a dam around the offending studs with modeling clay and flood the area with the mix. Buy a MAPP gas torch at Lowes, Walmart, etc. and heat the stud until the ATF/acetone mix starts to boil, let it cool and add more mix to keep it flooded as it wicks in. Use your stud extractor and a hammer to tap and turn. The most important thing is to let the ATF/acetone do its job on the rust and corrosion in the block and on the stud.
I have no problem reusing good original head studs if they have not been stretched or corroded...when they let go it's more of an aggravation than a catastrophic failure like a rod bolt. I've started using ARP on my engines since they are very cheap insurance.
Good luck, Rut

My gut reaction to an open flame near acetone says don't do it. Does the ATF mitigate the danger?

KVH · Aug 2, 2015

TR3driver said:
If the threads are OK (new nut spins easily all the way down without chasing the threads, no binding), and the damage from the extractor is no deeper than the bottom of the threads, then I would probably leave them alone.

About an inch up from the block surface on all three I have some limited gouging of the steel shank of the bolt. I could probably reuse all three and leave them alone. But if I try to remove them, two questions: a) how hot with a torch? Not quite glowing? b) if I do torch them, and still they won't come out, have I materially weakened them?

thx

Rut · Aug 2, 2015

TomMull said:
My gut reaction to an open flame near acetone says don't do it. Does the ATF mitigate the danger?

Yep, all of it will burn once you reach the flash point, but I've never been killed. All kidding aside you do need to be carefull, but everything burns off fairly well, then once you add more mix it will suck it down as it cools. A MAPP torch should be enough to get the stud cherry red.
Rut

Marvin Gruber · Aug 2, 2015

I've never not been able to remove one by double nutting one. I have added a long pipe to the hinge handle.

Marv

CJD · Aug 2, 2015

Marvin Gruber said:
I've never not been able to remove one by double nutting one. I have added a long pipe to the hinge handle.

Marv

Same here. I cringed every time I thought of what it would take if one of those long studs broke off, though. In the end, all you can do is all you can do. Soak those puppies for a good week...double nut and go crazy with a cheater bar. Heat them as a last resort. They either turn or break. "and that's all I have to say about that."

KVH · Aug 2, 2015

Marvin Gruber said:
I've never not been able to remove one by double nutting one. I have added a long pipe to the hinge handle.

Marv

Double nut down at the bottom of the threads? I assume a better, safer location, especially if the threads might distort? Problem down there, however, is that I'd have to use a box wrench. Gosh I'm reluctant to get a big pipe. It seems whenever I do that I really do twist something off.

Rut · Aug 2, 2015

KVH said:
Double nut down at the bottom of the threads? I assume a better, safer location, especially if the threads might distort? Problem down there, however, is that I'd have to use a box wrench. Gosh I'm reluctant to get a big pipe. It seems whenever I do that I really do twist something off.

Sometimes tightening them breaks them loose and unlike Marvin, who has a world more experience, I've had to use a pipe wrench when double nutting failed.
Rut

KVH · Aug 4, 2015

Marvin Gruber said:
I've never not been able to remove one by double nutting one. I have added a long pipe to the hinge handle.

Marv

A few years back one of my head studs snapped. I was so lucky. It snapped right at the block and I easily withdrew the remaining shank of the stud. This time, I'm just too gun shy. I've already scored the sides of the studs (not terribly), I've heated them, whacked them, oiled them, heated them again. I'm done. I'm taking the block into a machine shop.

A TR4 block empty of everything other than sleeves weighs about 200 pounds I assume.

Is there a really good engine harness from Harbor Freight or somewhere that will enable me to use my engine hoist to lift the block (naked of all but the sleeves) off the engine stand so I can slide it into my Suburban? There must be.

thx

Geo Hahn · Aug 4, 2015

KVH said:
...Is there a really good engine harness from Harbor Freight or somewhere that will enable me to use my engine hoist to lift the block...

I have an engine sling you can borrow for a couple of days (getting my engine back in a few days and will need it then).

KVH · Aug 12, 2015

OK, time to report back. The message from most folks here was that the bolts should come out, but likely best after soaking the shafts with penetrating oil, applying heat intermittently, and then either "double-nutting" or otherwise using an extractor and large wrench or bar for leverage.

I now have all bolts out doing exactly that. I soaked those bolts for days, whacked the tops of the bolts with a hammer, heated them with a torch (not excessively), then used two secret weapons--a Snap On Tool two piece extractor and a three foot long breaker bar. They're all out.

CJD · Aug 13, 2015

That's a huge relief! I always re-install mine finger snug with anti-seize. I have never had an issue with studs I have installed.

KVH · Aug 13, 2015

Yes and thanks as usual to all the good advice around here.

Rut · Aug 13, 2015

That's good news! I can't remember what the manual calls for, but I like finger tight with anti seize as well.
Rut

sp53 · Aug 14, 2015

Archimedes drove a Triumph. Glad you got them out; it is nice to have a complete inspection and change if you go with the other studs. The reason I knew about scaring the top of the block with a pipe wrench is because I did it, and I believe that might be the reason that engine mixed. The mark was small and I figured the gasket would get it, but maybe not. Anyways, what I mean is look close at the top of the block. I wish I would have.
Peace out

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General Tech Removing Stuck Head Studs from Block

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