MGB Trouble bleeding new clutch MC & slave

Fluid isn't going into the system from the reservoir or if it is it's going extremely slowly.
I expected to put fluid in and pump the clutch pedal and see the level drop.
It's gone down maybe 1/4 inch.

I drained the system before removing the master so that I wouldn't end up with a bunch of fluid up top.
I replaced the master and then removed and replaced the slave.

I've pumped the pedal at least 100 times and nothing seems to be happening.
The bleeder is completely unscrewed at this point, just hanging there on the last thread.

I didn't bench bleed because I really just expected it to work, I'm not really sure if I've done something wrong or what?

Ideas for how to get some fluid going through this MC?

Found the idea of using an oil can and forcing fluid up to the top through the bleeder.
Did that until there were no more bubbles in the MC reservoir.
Pedal sort of there but felt like some air still in the system.

Got a lovely assistant from inside the house ( I have 4 daughters and a couple of them still live at home).
Down, Up, repeat.

Got a good feeling pedal now, just picked up tools and got the car off the jack stands so now I will clean up and then go for a test drive.

Reverse bleeding as you've ow done is usually effective. Next time get a 60cc syringe (farm supply, etc) and some tubing...makes reverse bledding a little easier.

Be sure you have the bleed nipple in the correct hole on the slave cylinder. They are often shipped with the nipple installed in the incorrect hole to make packaging a little easier. The bleed nipple should go on the uppermost port.

They had it in the back so I put it on the side like it should be, the side is above the back port.

Reverse is the way to go. I did read about another method which is to either push the plunger in further than the car clutch does to get the remaining pocket of air out. Or remove the slave bolts, have it hang (supported of course) and open the bleeder and again push the plunger all the way in.

I haven't tried either of those methods but I have used a pressure bleeder on it and that did not work! I had to resort to manual help and even then had to drive it for a couple days until the bubbles eventually found their way into the reservoir and the clutch was back to normal.

Like the syringe idea.

Here's a Moss video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1dMdYgRK4

Reverse bleeding is the only way I could get a solid feel on the 72. Actually when replacing a complete brake system, I use the same method with a pressure bleeder. Usually gets all the air out the first time. PJ

I'm partial to the "Eeze-Bleed" system. It's worked for us in the shop for decades.