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TRclassic3
07-31-2009, 02:42 PM
Can someone enlighten me on whether the tranny is removed from inside or dropped underneath. Any other hints or direct is VERY much appreciated.

Thanks
Ed

aztvr
07-31-2009, 07:21 PM
I had no problem removing my transmission from my '74 2500M from underneath the car. Just remove the shifter lever first, from inside the car. Don't forget to remove the reversing light wires, and any others that might be on the switches on the shifter extension piece.

TRclassic3
08-01-2009, 05:55 PM
Jim

Thanks for the response. Is it necessary to remove seats and tunnel to get to the shifter and associated wiring? Oh wouldn't it be nice to have shop manual.

Ed

aztvr
08-02-2009, 05:36 PM
Is it necessary to remove seats and tunnel to get to the shifter and associated wiring?
Ed, just remove the carpet on top of the tunnel with the shifter an e-brake boots. Then there is one or two bolt/screws holdin a dome shaped cover holding the shifter in place. When you remove the shifter there should be a spring and a small ball bearing or maybe it's a short piece of metal with a round end that is the detent mechanism. Make sure that you capture them for reassembly. That kind if stuff is probably in the Haynes TR6 manual. Then, there are one or more switches on top of the transmission to remove the wires from after you label them. I can't remember if they are accessible from the top. I used a regular floor jack and balanced my transmission on it. Not the best solution. Also, the trick is to temporarily replace a couple of the bolts near the top of the bellhousing, around 10 and 2 (or 11 and 1?) with two studs; maybe 2-4 inches long so that the trans hangs on them while backing it out. That way you aren't putting a strain on the trans input shaft by hanging on it as you back it out of the pressure plate. The studs have to be long enough to serve that function but short enough to allow backing the trans out far enough to drop it. Used for guides on install also.

ralph_s
08-08-2009, 05:55 PM
Ed,
What happened w/ your tranny?? You were lookin' good at Gettysburg!! FYI, if you pull the tranny, I'd recommend you also do the clutch & buy an alignment tool to expedite reassembly!!

TRclassic3
08-11-2009, 06:11 AM
Hi Ralph,

Sorry for the delay in responding. We were off at Roadster Factory Summer Party. Drove up in the TR3 which performed flawlessly. Had a great time.

The clutch has a couple of symptoms that affect the drivability of the car. First is that the pressure point is very low, but more bothersome is that the action is not smooth. It is hard to depress and has a ratcheting type feel to it. I happened to run into Richard Good at TRF, who has developed a really slick setup to address the latter problem. I expect to go with that when I get a chance to do the project.

Have you had to drop your tranny?

ralph_s
08-15-2009, 11:43 AM
Ed,
Haven't had to yet!!!!! But it does seen straight forward. Always wanted to attend the TRF summer party, looks like a good time.
I'm heading to the "Taste of Britan" show in Rothsville, PA this coming weekend. It's sponsored by the local Lanco MG club. I'll take some pixs and post to the forum.
Good luck w/ the clutch. Pave the way, take lots of pixs and notes so I can benefit from your "efforts"!!!!!!!!

TRclassic3
11-11-2009, 12:05 PM
This past weekend turned out to be prime time for tranny removal and clutch replacement. The process went pretty well, although I was very thankful to have some knowlegable help. Interestingly we could not pinpoint the source of the problem. All components appeared to be relatively new and in good working order. Never the less, I replaced the existing Borg and Beck with a new LUK (Laycock) clutch, and also intalled Good Products mechanism upgrade. The upgrade involved some modifications to the bell housing and this took up a major portion of the time doing the job. Re-assembly went well and the end result is a VERY smooth operation. The pressure point is still lower than I would like, but I believe I can improve that by adjusting of the slave push rod (part of the Good kit). Start to finish the job took about 9 hours. We took our time to be sure we were getting it right. I beleive the correction of the ratcheting feeling can be attributed to the Richard Good product. Very well thought out and engineered.

With this issue behind I can move on to other fun stuff, like wiring and interior. Enjopying every minute. Let me know if you want any of the gory details of the clutch job.

ralph_s
11-12-2009, 10:32 AM
Ed,
Good to hear all went well. Assume you had a touch of Indian summer to make the job more enjoyable. Not sure what the Good Products stuff is? Gory details are always appreciated.
Also enjoyed the warm weather and took the time to do oil changes on the MG & TVR.

TRclassic3
11-12-2009, 02:33 PM
Hi Ralph

Yes, it did go quite well. I am fortunate in that I have a separate garage (man cave) where I work on my projects, AND I can warm it up easily when the weather turns cold.

Here is a link to Good Parts and the clutch mechanism.
http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=25

Thought you might be interested if you ever have to pull your tranny or re do your clutch. Things were actually pretty straight forward. I removed the center console cover, carefully labeling all the black wires from the switches, removed the gear shift lever and disconnected the wires at the top of the tranny (back up lights). I do not have the overdrive. We then dropped the exhaust off (not stock, custom made stainless). Not a lot of fun there but it was OK. The rest was straight forward and involved supporting the engine, disconnecting the drive shaft, removing the tail support, the slave cylinder, and then all the bolts at the bell housing. Interestingly, the headers prevented removal of the starter so we just unbolted and left it in place. Wasn't a problem. It will be a big job however if I need to repair/replace the starter.

We used a small transmission jack to help get the tranny out and back in. There wasn't enough clearance to get it out from under the car on the jack, but it was still very helpful in the removal and installation. We took it off the jack once lowered and then slid it from underneath.

You can get a good idea of what we went through to do the upgrade for the Good set up fron his web site.

Let me know if you have any specific questions and I;ll do my best to answer.

Ed

ralph_s
11-30-2009, 07:12 PM
Ed,
Any updates/progress reports? Find any parts to put on your christmass list while you put it back together??