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ynotme2
11-10-2005, 08:29 AM
Everyone,

Thanks for the tips. They have been great. So my saga continues in which i Am restarting a 72 TC that has not been started in about 7 years. I got the fluids done and then put some lube in the cylinders. Bought a new battery and after some patience turned the engine over. Everything went well up to that point

I also went and drained both tanks. The gas had been sitting in there for the 7 years it was dormant. Wow was that bizzare in the fact it looks purple in color. I added some fresh gas to both tanks. Enough to register a 1/4 tank on the gauge. It looks like my fuel lines are clear because the gas floweed freely to the catch bucket when I emptied them.

So after the fresh gas I tried to fire her up again and it turned and turned and turned. But to no avail. Not even a little combustion. I smelled near the carbs and got somewhat a faint scent of gas but am not sure if they are getting the neccessary amount to get this thing running.

I was going to pull apart the fuel pump to check the strainer in it. Although it seems as though the screw on top of the fuel pump is really tough to unscrew. I don't want to break the **** thing.

So a couple of questions. Is the screw on top of the pump really tough to unscrew? Also will it take a ton of cranking to get the fuel bowls in the carbs full of gas? Any other ideas on what to check?

I have a electronic ignition system. Looks like a pertronix was intalled. Checked the wiring and it looks like it was hooked up correctly. How would I check that to make sure that the ignition system is up to par?

Thanks

Tony

DrEntropy
11-10-2005, 10:29 AM
'lectronic iggy can be checked with a timing light the easiest. Just hook it up and check to see if it triggers when cranking. Zenith carbs? If so, I'd stop all else and get rebuild kits for 'em. NOTHING worse than chasin' yer tail 'cause a ZS has a ruptured or pinholed diaphragm, stuck float needles, clogged jet supply tube, etc. You HAVE checked for compression on this engine by now, right?

Some "weasel pee" penetrating oil (PB Blaster's good) on the threaded part of the fuel pump bowl tensioner should help in loosening it. If you can see fuel in there and it'll pump a bit to a container (longish hose and ign. coil volt supply disconnected first!) as you spin it on the key, you need not remove it just now. It'll likely need a new gasket if you are successful in removal anyhow.

It's gonna be them ZS units' fault, man. Rebuild 'em now, as you'll be doin' it later anyway... and then you know what's NOT the problem as a side benefit.